WhiteKnuckler Knife Review

whiteknuckler knife review

Knives Are The Most Practical Tools

The reason why knives are one of the most practical tools in the world is the fact that they are simple to use and are highly versatile tools, even today people carry knives of all kinds with them for a variety of reasons ranging from utilitarian use to self-defense.

Our whiteknuckler knife review is going to shed light on a superbly designed knife by a brand that is well-known for their ability to provide users with quality, beauty, and practicality in every product that they have to offer.

Their WhiteKnuckler is a knife that is designed with users such as truckers, bikers, hunters and knife connoisseurs kept in mind, a compact yet highly useful blade that can be used in a great number of ways.

This Knife Is

Made of imported 440C stainless steel, the single body blade is incredibly durable, making it perfect for use as a handy tool or as a self-defense weapon that you can rely on.

Each blade that the manufacturer produces is hand finished, polished and engraved in Columbus Ohio, this ensures that every blade is as sharp as possible and has a beauty about it that no machine made blade can ever hope to achieve.

Along with a beautiful looking blade, every knife comes with a unique artistically burned handle that receives extreme attention to detail to make it look as beautiful as possible.

Looks aren’t the only thing that make it superb, its blade is small enough to make carrying it around with you comfortable, but is quite well-designed.

Its shape allows users to use it in numerous ways, the handle provides a superb grip on it, and a forefinger hole makes handling it even better. While sheathed in its sheath made of premium 8-10oz domestic leather, it measures around 6 inches, which is just perfect for a belt knife.

Handling it while it’s sheathed is also quite comfortable thanks to its forefinger grip that eliminates the chances of you dropping it while you’re in the process of unsheathing it, it also makes taking it out and readying it for use as fast and simple as possible.

It is available in Black Out, Chestnut handle and bone handle variants, both of which look incredibly appealing with and without their vegetable tanned leather sheaths.

It is available in 5 inches and 7 inches variants, the 5-inch option being perfect for people who want to carry a small yet dependable blade with them at all times and the 7 inch one being more suitable for individuals who are looking for something more serious.

Regardless of which variant you go for, it is an incredibly made carry knife that is bound to please anyone who goes for one, its great design, build quality and the effort that goes into making each blade makes this belt knife a truly badass one, one on which you can rely on for many years to come.

How to Wear a Boot Knife Properly

how to wear a boot knife

Knives are incredibly handy tools, they can be used in a variety of ways and are really low maintenance, the only problem with them is that they take up space and can be hard to carry around. Even the most compact pocket knife can be hard to carry around since they’re bulky and take precious pocket space. Fortunately, there are more ways of carrying knives than just keeping them in your pockets. We’re going to take a look at how to wear a boot knife in an efficient manner, a knife can only be useful as long as it’s readily available, especially if you’re planning on using it for self-defense.

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Best Whetstones To Buy in 2017

Knives are incredibly useful tools and have been used by people for as long as humans have been around, and just like every other tool out there they need to be taken care of to maximize their life and their reliability. We’re going to take a look at the 20 best whetstones that are available in the market, whetstones are used to hone a knife’s edge and keep it razor sharp. A sharp and honed edge keeps a blade more useful and keeps it from becoming damaged, whether you’re looking to maintain your favorite kitchen knife or want to keep an everyday knife sharp, you’re bound to find a whetstone here that will suit your needs.

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The Master Grade Premium Multi-Stage Electric Knife Sharpener Review

master grade premium multi-stage electric knife sharpener reviewA knife can be an extremely reliable tool, whether you’re using one in the kitchen or somewhere else, but like every other tool out there, to keep your knife dependable and to keep it in good shape, you need to maintain it. When it comes to the maintenance of a knife, the process involves keeping its edge razor sharp, there are many ways of sharpening a knife, but today we’re going to take a look at one of the easiest and most effective ones provided by the Master Grade Premium Multi-Stage Electric Knife Sharpener. A knife sharpener that is designed with professional capabilities kept in mind, but since it’s designed for home use, the machine is quite easy to use.

Now before we take a look at the master grade premium, it is important first to understand how knife sharpening works. The process involves angling the edge of a blade on a rough surface and reducing its width, making it sharper, most modern knife sharpening tools consist of rough stones that have been oven baked just for this use. The problem with sharpening knives is that it’s not something everyone can do, angling the blade even slightly incorrectly can result in making the blade duller, and also, using the wrong kind of sharpening stone can permanently damage the blade. The Master Grade Premium knife sharpener is designed to eliminate all these problems and make sharpening your knife to a razor finish a straightforward and speedy task.

The Master Grade Premium Knife Sharpener is manufactured by one of the best knife sharpener manufacturers, the company has been out to produce the perfect knife sharpener for the last 16 years, and this product is their latest electric knife sharpener that is aimed at people who aren’t professional chefs. What makes this knife sharpener different from the numerous other models in the market is the fact that Master Grade puts a lot of effort in designing their product. The knife sharpener consists of high-quality parts; it has an industrial grade motor with bearings of the same quality, providing you with consistent power and a knife sharpener with a very long knife.

Another feature of the Master Grade Premium is that the knife sharpener is a multi-stage knife sharpener, it makes use of three different sharpening stones; a coarse and medium stone that helps thin the blade’s edge and a fine stone that adds the finishing touches to the blade’s edge. The knife sharpener’s patented angle guides help you place the blade at the correct angle, all you have to do is insert the blade in the designated area, and it will automatically get angled at 15 degrees, and once the blade is in place the knife sharpeners motor will start rotating the stones. Every stone used by Master Grade is oven baked for 45 days, making their sharpening stones vastly superior to what their competitors have to offer.

Master grade is known for providing great quality with excellent performance at a superb value, and their Premium Multi-Stage Electric Knife Sharpener embodies all three of these, whether you’re a professional or a home cook, this knife sharpener will help you keep your blades sharp and maximize their lifespan. One of the best things about this knife sharpener is that it can even re-profile blades, effectively extending their lifespan by up to 10 years.

If you’re looking for a knife sharpener that you can rely on, then this knife sharpener is one of the best options in the market right now.

Thumb rollover

Thumb rollover

AKA: Y2K rollover

This is a very cool move once you nail it a few times. The trick is to keep the connection between the Balisong and your thumb. It’s not a throw. The Bali has to “walk” over your Thumb.

Download an AVI of the technique here.

Preview the Technique here with the smaller GIF file.

1. Start in the Backhand grip, closed position. Bite handle should be facing IN toward your palm.

I find that tilting the Bali forward slightly makes this move a little easier.

2. Allow the safe handle to drop down and away.

3. As the Bali swings through…………….

4. ……….pull your Thumb in toward your body slightly. This will become the guide for your Bali to roll over.

5. Let the Handles wrap around your Thumb, and roll over it.

At this point the safe handle has just entered the palm.

6. Close your fingers around the safe handle before the blade enters.

7. Allow the blade and bite handle to continue downward…………

8. ………… until they ricochet and come back up…….



11. Into the forward grip, open position.

 Make sure you start with the BITE handle in to begin the move. If you don’t you’ll get cut on the ricochet before the opening.

Backhand throw

Backhand throw


This throw opening starts in the backhand position, and floats over the back of the hand, forward. The catch is tricky, so be careful.

Download an AVI of the technique here.

Preview the Technique here with the smaller GIF file.

1. Start in the Backhand closed position.



2. Allow the bite handle to fall down and back.



3. As the bite handle reaches the bottom, (before it contacts the side of your palm), tilt your hand to the palm down position and release.



4. If you timed it right, the Bali should make one rotation above your hand, moving slightly forward.



5. Tilt your hand back………….



6. ………… to vertical, to prepare for the catch.



7. As you can see by the position of my hand, the catch is made with the safe handle in a vertical position.




8. This is because the Bali is rotating forward, as opposed to the usual backward spin you are accustomed to.






10. End in the Forward grip, open position.

Rollover to Backhand

Rollover to Backhand

Now we’ll take that rollover technique, and apply it to an opening……….. In this case, to a Backhand grip.

Download an AVI of the technique here.

Preview the Technique here with the smaller GIF file.

1. Start in the Forward grip, closed position.





2. Begin the technique by executing a Basic Windmill.










4. As the bite handle (in this case) comes up, place your Index finger on the back of the safe handle just below the pivot PINs.









6. As the bite handle comes over, let go with your other fingers, leaving your Index finger in place.





7. Let the Balisong roll over the Index finger.




8. As the back of the safe handle comes around, place your Thumb in position to catch with your Index finger.




9. Pull your wrist back a little to continue the motion of the bite handle.










11. Finish in the Backhand grip, open position.

Basic twirl

Forward grip to Backhand Open

This is the first of the finger twirl openings I’m posting. I used the term “finger twirl” to remain consistent with the terminology you’ll find in other book and video offerings.

1. Start in the Forward grip, closed position. Safe handle into your palm.
2. Begin the move with a Horizontal type opening.

Actually, it will more resemble the Horizontal variation in that the first thing you’re going to do is a ricochet off of the back of your hand.
3. Before the ricochet……..
4. ………….Insert your Index finger to the area just above the Thumb.
6. This is the ricochet point mentioned in step two.
7. Torque your wrist over to send the blade and handle to the next ricochet point.
9. Second ricochet.

At the moment of ricochet, pull the Thumb out…….
10.……………… and around to the other side, and scissor with the Index and Middle fingers to bring the handle over.
13. Torque your wrist over a little to speed up the movement.
14. Finish in the Backhand grip, open position.

Ending position will have your fingers “choked up” close to the blade. Keep the Thumb in position but open up the other fingers to stabelize.

Make sure you check out the AVI to see the closing move, as it’s just a little different from the opening.

Keeping the Latch, Latched. Open or closed.

Tightening up the lock, so your Balisong stays open & closed when it’s supposed to.


This one might seem simple to some of you out there, but I got more than a few E-mails this week from people needing help. And I have to say, I was a little surprised to read the way some of you tried to solve the problem…….. hammering or clamping down on the latch pin, which made everything worse! Lets break it down.

OK….. here’s the problem:
You just watched the AVI of me executing a full pivot, and you decide you’d like to try it. Great! So …..with Balisong in hand, you start to slowly get a feel for the technique. Carefully dissecting each part of the move, until you’re ready to try it full speed. And that’s when the problem shows it’s ugly head. For this technique and others resembling it, I said “To help keep your grip, position your fingertips so their in the groove where the handles meet”. But, when you try it at speed, the handles come unlatched, and Your Bali goes sailing across the room.

Now, the new problem you’ve created:
So……. you nick up a few walls, break a few things, and decide you need to fix this problem. Off to your trusty hammer (or vise, depending on if you’re a basher or a squeezer) to let it work it’s magic, and……. Well, it’s not unlatching anymore, but then again, It now takes a over minute, and lots of energy to get your Balisong open and closed. Worse yet, the latch is always in the way when you’re “freestyling”, the blade is getting all nicked up, and the latch is getting grooves cut into it by the blade………. it doesn’t seem like a fair price to pay for a couple “flashy” moves, does it?

Now hear this:
The latch must…….. I repeat, MUST, be able to swing freely at all times.

The fix:
Instead of hammering the latch pin, lightly clamp down on the slot in the safe handle that the latch slides into….. THAT’S IT! Now the latch won’t be in your way, you can open your Balisong in a flash, it’s not taking a beating, and you can continue learning new techniques……….. once again, life is good.

Thanx Craig, and others, for the question!

Replacing pins yourself…….. A “How to” guide.

Sooner or later it happens to all of us. You’re flyin’ through your favorite Balisong moves (ever notice it’s always when you’re at your best…… I hate that!) and all of a sudden one of the handles falls at your feet. What an empty feeling. Well, fear not. Most of the under $100 models (my favorites) are very easy to fix.

What you’ll need:
~Ball peen hammer (It has a round head on one end)
~ Hack saw
~Hard metal surface (anvil section on a bench vise for example)
~Finishing nails (Don’t laugh, I’ve been using them for years and they work. More on the size later.)
~Grinder or metal file
~2 old type razor blades (optional, but recommended for your first few attempts)
~ Nerve (…..to start bashing on your favorite toy, under the premise of “fixing” it.)

Right….. here we go!

1) Clear any sections of the broken pin out of the affected handle. Line the handle holes up with the holes in the blade, and look through. Make sure there are no obstructions, or metal particles. Blow it out if you have to. I also use thick yarn, with a “dental floss” type motion through the holes. Anything stuck in there could bind on you later.

2) Here is where the finishing nails come in. If you have a shop in your cellar, or happen to have a bucket of nails lying around, finishing nails are the ones with the small heads (the part ya’ hit). Try inserting a few through the holes. You want the fit to be as snug as possible. The nail should take up all the space of the holes. OK, found it? Push the nail all the way through, until the head is against the handle. Notice, in most cases the “stock” pins on your knives are “mushroomed” over (so they don’t fall out obviously). Thats why I use the finishing nails…… one side is already mushroomed!

3) Now take the hack saw and cut the excess part of the nail about 1/2 an inch from the handle. Relax……you’re doing fine.

4) OK, now for the razor blades. You might want to dull the edges a little before you start. Slide the razors between the blade and the handle, on both sides. This will act as a spacer in case you go a little overboard with the hammer in the next step.

5) Here comes the finesse part. Lay your balisong down on the hard metal surface (or anvil) with the head of the nail facing down. It will not lie evenly because of the head of the nail, so make sure before you start banging, that you hold the knife so the nail is straight up and down. You don’t want it on an angle, because instead of mushrooming, it’ll just bend ……..not good!

6) Bashing time! Now, hit the pin in the center a few times, with the ball end of the hammer. Take a close look at the pin, from a side view. Repeat this process, making sure the pin is mushrooming as you hit. Start pulling and pushing the hammer as you hit, this will help broaden the mushroom point. Always look closely after 2 or 3 hits to make sure you’re getting the desired effect (something that looks like a pin). When the pin snugs up to the handle, take the razors out. A few more light taps, and you’re done….. well almost.

7) This is it! With your grinder, or metal file, Shave the head of the nail down to an acceptable level. Then do the same with the end you were tapping on.

With any luck, you’re back in business

Thanx to Juliusv for the Question!